We have often joked that “Chandranil poyalum avade oru Malayali indaavum, pinne ayaalde vaga oru chaaya kadayum”. In its truest sense, this describes how Malayalis hold on to their cultural roots no matter which part of the world they are in. The best way to relive the cultural essence is through its ‘bread and brew’ and it goes without saying that for most Malayalis, the preferred brew is alcohol. A wedding, funeral or a simple get-together is incomplete without alcohol. Here is a list of alcohol brands started by NRI MalayalIs who took it upon themselves to uphold the authentic taste of Kerala’s alcoholic drinks.
Manavatty by John Xavier
In 2021, John Xavier from Kochi opened a ‘kallu shaap’ within his restaurant Thattukada. As the restaurant and the toddy parlour became a cultural landmark, it encouraged him to venture out to make his own alcohol brand. This is the origin story of Manavatty, an alcohol brand that has brought Kerala’s traditional drinks, packaged in a new avatar, to the forefront.
The name Manavatty has an interesting conception. It literally translates to ‘bride’ in Malayalam. ‘Mana’ represents the elemental forces of nature while ‘Vatty’ refers to the traditional fermentation and distillation process of making spirit. The brand has launched three varieties of alcohol to cater to various needs. The Vat is a traditionally prepared spirit with 44% alcohol content and, as Xavier calls it, “a homage to centuries-old fermentation and distillation techniques.” The second is the Indian spiced rum with a 40% alcohol content and brewed with exotic Indian flavours, spices and herbs. The India Pale Ale (IPA) beer is the third and most loved amongst British beer drinkers. It has a moderate alcohol content of
4.3% and uses the rich Indian flavours widely found in the local alcohol brands in India.
The speciality of Manavatty stems from its position of cultural resonance for Malayalis. It is an attempt to blend the age-old brewing techniques in Kerala to cater to the contemporary alcohol scene abroad.
Taika by Ajith Padmakumar and Sajeesh Joseph
What started as a personal alcohol brewing session between two friends in Canada during COVID has now become one of the famous alcohol brands by NRI Malayalis. Their ‘Naadan Chaarayam’ entices both Malayalis and Canadians alike.
Chaarayam or Arrack is a distilled alcohol drink made from the fermented sap grain, fruits or coconut flowers. Despite AK Anthony government’s decision to ban all country liquor shops in 1996, Arrack continues to be distilled for personal use (though not legally).
Sajeesh used his grandfather’s age-old family recipe, and its success led them to make their own alcohol brand, Taika. The artisanal liquor brand uses simple ingredients like raw fruits, dates, Jaggery and spices to brew the arrack in a distillery leased by the company in Ontario. Currently, they focus on production on demand as it is an unaged spirit.
Ajith and Sajeesh perfected the recipe until they developed a taste that caters to the potential market. The bottle features cultural elements of Kerala and Malayalam chirography that says “Naadan Chaarayam”. The brand name Taika is derived from the word ‘Tiger’. Taika’s speciality is the perfected family recipe that reminds the Malayalee diaspora of naadu and veedu. Taika is hoping to expand to the Kerala markets soon.
Mandakini by Abish Cheriyan, Elias Cherian and Sareesh Kunjappan
Following the nostalgic path of arrack, Mandakini, also known as Malabari Vaat, took Canada by storm. The website states that Mandakini is an attempt to bring the Indian flavours of unaged sugarcane-based spirits to a global platform. The brand’s origin is rooted in a discussion the Cheriyan brothers had.
Abish Cheriyan, his brother Elias Cheriyan, and Sareesh Kunjappan are the visionaries behind the new label in Canada. After living in the country for over a decade, they immersed themselves in the local liquor scene, experimenting with various types to refine their creation. Their knowledge of local country liquor led to the creation of Mandakini, made primarily from sugarcane extract. The brand targets the South Asian diaspora, including Indians, Sri Lankans, and others, rather than just Malayalis. The bottle features ‘local liquor’ written in five languages, including Hindi, Tamil, and Malayalam, reflecting how each Indian state uses its local ingredients in its alcohol.
While Keralites focused on jaggery and rice, North Indians used sugarcane due to its wide availability. The essence and taste of the local spirit attracted Don DiMonte, a Canadian-Italian businessman, whose support brought in the first batch of Mandakini. Its overwhelming reception and increased demand surprised DiMonte, who was stunned by the community’s passion for the liquor.
Maharani Irish Gin by Bhagyalakshmi Barrett and Robert Barett
The spices that once captivated European explorers have now arrived at their doorstep in the form of Maharani. This Irish gin is infused with pomelo fruit, also known as Babloos Naranga, along with spices like cassia and nutmeg mace. The unique blend of these elements represents a groundbreaking formulation.
For founder Bhagyalakshmi, the brand symbolises Kerala’s revolutionary and rebellious spirit. Challenging the traditional notion of alcohol being a male domain, both in brewing and consumption at toddy shops, her brand stands as a tribute to female empowerment. The label features Malayalam words like Viplava Spirit, Moksham, Alchemy, and Sargathmakatha, highlighting the brand’s key specialities — its revolutionary spirit and the artistry involved in crafting Maharani.
Bhagyalakshmi, true to her words, sources the ingredients for the distillery from Vanamoolika, a women’s organic farming cooperative in Wayanad which has employed over 200 women. Her pride as a Malayali and rebellious spirit found a kindred partner in Robert Barrett, an Irish expert in distillery and brewing. Their distillery, named Rebel City, reflects the rebellious nature of Cork, Ireland, where it was established.
With plans to expand further, the couple focuses on the fusion of the two cultures just like their love story. The brand’s origin lies in how Robert developed a taste for the cassia, nutmeg spices and other spices that Bhagyalakshmi would bring from India. Based on her suggestion, he tried out a few combinations and the couple worked to make Gin from Kerala spices, giving us Maharani. Bhagyalakshmi wishes to change the alcohol game with Maharani by getting people to enjoy the drink rather than focus on intoxication.
Poland’s Malayali Beer by Chandra Mohan and Sarghave Sukumaran
When a local businessman declined to pick up a shipment of 20,000 kg of rice flakes due to the unpredictable effects of the Ukraine War, Chandra Mohan’s idea for ‘rice beer’ gained prominence. Partnering with his friend Sarghave Sukumaran, they developed a recipe that avoids an overly ‘rice-y’ taste. Inspired by Japanese rice beer, they added their unique touch by infusing it with European hops. They also sought advice from Lijo Philip, who had launched his beer brand Kalikut 1498 in Poland before COVID.
With everything in place, they began searching for a name. Chandra, who had worked closely with expats assisting Indians, discovered that many of the volunteers were actually from Kerala. This insight led them to realise that being Malayali is an emotional bond. Malayali Beer‘s specialty lies in its connection between Malayalis and Poland, celebrating their long-standing relationship. As a nod to this, the brand’s tagline echoes the sentiment: “Polandine patti oruaksharam mindaruth!”
Komban Beer by Vivek Pillai
In 2016, restaurateur Vivek Pillai responded to his customers’ requests for an authentic alcoholic beverage to complement the Malayali cuisine served at his restaurant. Recognising the untapped potential for Indian craft beer in the market, he introduced Komban beer.
Komban, meaning “the great tusked elephant,” symbolises Malayali culture. The beer is brewed using Palakkadan Matta rice, also known as red rice, which was a staple for royalty in the Southern Chola and Chera Dynasties. This key ingredient helps introduce Kerala’s rich history to the UK with every bottle. As Komban’s popularity grew, so did its variations, including Komban Indian Lager, Komban Premium Black Lager, and Komban Blonde. With an alcoholic content ranging between 4-5%, the beers are renowned for their underlying caramel sweetness and subtle aroma.
These NRI Malayalis and their alcohol brands are on a mission to bring Kerala’s authentic flavours to the world. By crafting unique alcoholic drinks, they’re not just keeping the tradition alive — they’re making sure the global stage gets a taste of Kerala’s finest!
